Locks of love unlocked a distant memory

About 20 years ago, I visited the waterfalls at Sivasamudra in Karnataka state, India. At one viewpoint,  there was a  fence to which padlocks had been attached. The fence was special; it surrounded the tomb of a Muslim saint.  I had never seen anything like this before.

I asked our well-educated driver, Rahim,  about the locks. His explanation was that people  who had a wish that they wanted fulfilled, attached a lock to the fence and discarded the key. Their belief was that when their wish was granted, God would unlock the padlock.

 

Some years after visiting Sivasamudram, I began noticing bridges in Europe to which padlocks had been attached, often in great numbers. Each lock usually bore a name that had been written on it. These locks are known as ‘love locks’. Their supposed origin was at a bridge in Vrnjačka Banja in Serbia in 1914 (see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Love_lock). Loving couples place padlock is on a bridge or railing, and throw away the key. The lock is placed to symbolise their undying live for one another, rather than to fulfil a wish, such as hoping for a baby or  a spouse, or success in some other venture,  as Rahim explained to us at Sivasamudram.

 

Some bridges have had so many locks attached to them that the weight of these attachments can threaten the structural integrity of the bridge.

 

Locks on a bridge over one of the navigli in Milano

Today, 15 September  2026,when visiting the navigli – the canal network of Milano in Italy  – I spotted neat clusters of lo e locks, which looked a bit like bunches of misshapen grapes. Seeing these lo ks brought back memories of my visit to Sivasamudram,  and inspired me to write this.

 

 

Picasso in Liguria: from Genova to Guernica

During a visit to the monumental Staglieno Cemetery in Genova, I was surprised to see several gravestones bearing the name ‘Picasso’.

In Staglieno Cemetery

The artist Pablo Picasso, creator of the famous “Guernica” image and many other artworks, was born in Malaga, Spain, and died in Mougins, France.

After seeing the Picasso name commemorated in several places within the Staglieni Cemetery in Genova,  I became curious, and did a little research on the Internet.

I found out that Picasso is a family name that is typically found in the Italian province of Liguria, in which Genova is situated. The artist Pablo Picasso’s maternal great-grandfather, Tommaso Picasso, moved from Liguria to Spain in about 1807. The name Picasso is only part of the artist’s full name, which is, hold your breath: Pablo Diego José Francisco de Paula Juan Nepomuceno María de los Remedios Cipriano de la Santísima Trinidad Ruiz y Picasso. Ruiz & Picasso were respectively his father’s and mother’s surnames.

Whether or not the Picassos who are intermediate in the cemetery in Genova are closely, or even remotely, related to the famous artist I have yet to discover.

So far, all that I can conclude is that in the case of Pablo Picasso one can say it is a case of ‘from Genova to’ Guernica’

A Soviet soldier buried in Genova (Genoa)

The Cimitero Staglieno in Genova contains a remarkable collection of funerary sculpture. But I will not  write about this now. Instead, I  am going to concentrate on only  one memorial – something I was not expecting to see in this cemetery.

The monument is in part of the cemetery dedicated to those who were killed in WW2. The bodies of these unfortunate people are either in the graveyard or commemorated there because their remains were cremated, or otherwise disposed of, by the Germans in their various camps for prisoners, including concentration camps. The monument that attracted my attention has its inscription both in Italian and  Russian. It is the grave of Fyodor Andrianovič Poletaev (1909-1945).

In Stglieno Cemetery

Fyodor’s biography is described in detail at https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/F%C3%ABdor_Andrianovi%C4%8D_Poletaev, but I will summarise it here.

He was born in  the Ryazan Oblast in Imperial Russia. At the outset of ww2, he was called up to join the Red Army.

In June 1942, Fyodor was captured by the Germans and became a prisoner of war. After being transferred from one POW camp to another, he arrived in July 1944 at  a concentration camp at Tortona, near Genova. He escaped from this camp, and then joined a group of Italian partisans fighting in the Appenine Hills. He died fighting in a battle at Cantalupa. He was buried in the Staglieni Cemetery in Genova, where his monument can be seen.

Thus, a labourer from the Sovie Union ended up a hero in Italy.

Revisiting old haunts in Milano (Milan)

Between 1978 and 1982, long before we married, my wife Lopa lived and worked in Milano – Milan.

Today, 13 September 2026, more than 40 years after she left the city, we did a little sightseeing – the Duomo, the Galleria near the cathedral, La Scala, and the Stazione Centrale – and then we headed away from the tourist-infested areas to Via Paolo Sarpi, which is the main street in the district where Lopa resided.

One of the attractions of Via Paolo Sarpi is Pizzeria da Giuliano, which was founded in 1969. With a justifiably good reputation for its pizzas, this unpretentious restaurant was around the corner from the building in which Lopa had an apartment.  She used to collect pizzas to eat at home from this pizzeria. For old times sake, we ate lunch there, and enjoyed the tastier-than-average wood fired pizza slices. The place was filled with families enjoying Sunday lunches.

9 Via Albertini

The exterior of Lopa’s flat at number 9 Via Albertini looks the same as it was when she lived there, but both Via Albertini and Via Paolo Sarpi have been pedestrianised since she left the area. Also, the shop that used to make and sell fresh filled pasta has gone, and has been replaced by a restaurant serving Japanese food.

Revisiting old haunts is always interesting.  Finding that some things have remained the same is satisfying. And in the case of Lopa’s former neighbourhood,  the changes since she left have not caused the area to deteriorate.

The watermelon line and other boundaries

Sometime in the mid-1970s, I travelled from London to Platamon in northern Greece by road with my PhD supervisor,  Robert, and his wife. We drove a Land Rover and towed a caravan. The trip took eight days, during which there was plenty of time to discuss a wide variety of topics.

One of the subjects that Robert brought up was a series of imaginary boundaries that divide Europe in different ways. For example, there must be a watermelon line that separates parts of the continent where watermelons are grown from the parts of Europe where they are not. Similarly, there must be an olive line, north of which olives are not grown and harvested.

I read somewhere that a French author – I have never discovered which one – proposed that there must be a line south of which Brussel sprouts are not routinely consumed.

Another line proposed by Robert is one that separates the areas where church towers are topped with bulbous onion-shaped, as for example in southern Germany, from other place where church towers are not topped with these domes.

 

One could proposed many other examples, but you should now be seeing what I am getting at.

 

Another line that interested Robert a great deal was that which bounds the northern limit of an an commonly seen in hot desert conditions, Cataglyphis bicolor. Robert became an expert on this insect’s ecology and foraging behaviour.  The place he studied it was on the sandy flats near the sea at Platamon.

 

Drawing these notional lines might be becoming more difficult because climate change is affecting the geography of crop growing significantly.  With summer temperatures in southern Europe rivalling those in the Gulf States,  I would not be surprised if Mediterranean crops such as olives will soon be grown in northern territories such as the south of England. Robert would have been surprised if he had lived to experience the changed climate we are now experiencing.

Flag of St George in Genova and England

All over England, the flag of St George – a red cross on a white background – can be seen fluttering in the breeze.  It has become more evident in recent years, either because of the football World Cup or the rise in right wing nationalistic sentiment in England, or maybe both. Arriving in Genova (Italy), I was surprised to see the flag of St George flying all over the place.

It does not fly in Genova because its inhabitants have become England football supporters. There is another reason for its prevalence.

In Genova

According to  Wikipedia,  the flag of St George has its origin in the tenth century. It was originally associated with the Crusaders, and was adopted as the ensign of the former Republic of Genova.

In the fourteenth century Englad replaced its patron saint, Edmunds the Martyr, with St George, and his flag  became used in the country.

It is believed that when  Richard the Lionheart passed through Genoa in the thirteenth century, he adopted the flag for his ships. But to do this he had to agree to pay Genova an annual tribute. This continued to be paid until 1771.

So, it seems that British nationalists and others in England are flying a ‘borrowed’ flag. We should be indebted to both Richard the Lionheart and to the mediaeval rulers of Genova.

Are the babysitters more vulnerable than the children they are looking after?

Many of our friends aged well over 70 years have grandchildren. These grandparents are often called upon to babysit and care for their young grandchildren.

One person we know makes several long trips across London every week to care for her small grandchildren. Another travels from Durham to London to carry out the task. Yet others fly over to London from India and South Africa to provide a few weeks or days of babysitting.

Some of these grandparents are in their 80s and not in the best of health.

QUESTION:

Who is the most vulnerable – the grandparents or the grandchildren?

I believe it is the elder grandparents. If one of these unpaid carers is suddenly taken ill or has a bad fall while caring for their grandchildren, the consequences might well be awful.

PS some of these grandparents are looking after the children of parents who can well afford to pay for proper carers.

Napkin or serviette – which is correct?

My parents, who were brought up in South Africa, called them “serviettes”. Many people in Britain call them “napkins”.

From Beeton, 1903

In a 1903 edition of “Mrs Beeton’s Cookery Book”, these cloths for diners to use at table are called “serviettes”. It was advised that these should be folded to make decorative table ornaments.

In the instructions for making a mitre shape, Mrs Beeton wrote “Fold the napkin …”

So which is it? Napkin? or Serviette?