Recycling old herring fishing boats on an island off Northumberland

HOLY ISLAND IN the North Sea is reached by travelling along a causeway that links it to the coast of Northumberland. The causeway disappears under water for several hours during high tide, which occurs twice a day.

Near the island’s harbour, there are upturned herring boat hulls. Some of them have been covered with a layer of tar. At the rear of each of these hulls, there are doors fitted. For today, these upturned, retired fishing boat hulls now serve as storage sheds.

Apparently, the fishermen of Holy Island consider it sinful to send these boats to breaker’s yards or to otherwise dispose of them. So, they recycle these herring boats (cobles) as sheds.

Art and architecture in the middle of Middlesbrough

NEW YORK CITY has its MOMA, and Middlesbrough in northeast England’s has its MIMA, which stands for Middlesbrough Institute of Modern Art.  Standing proudly in the heart of the town, these building housing MIMA is a superb piece of modern architecture.

 

MIMA in the background and sculpture by Oldenburg and Van Bruggen

Completed in 2007, this adventurous edifice was designed by a Dutch firm: Erick van Egeraat Associated Architects. The building alone is a fine work of art, most fitting for housing artworks and events connected with them.

 

During our visit on 21 April 2026, we saw several items on display, including many fascinating ceramic objects and some images relating to Middlesbrough past and present. Also, we refreshed ourselves with good coffee served in MIMA’s attractive café/restaurant. Outside the buildings, there is a large sculpture by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen called “Bottle of Notes”. Created in 1993, it the only work by these artists made in the UK. 

 

Even if there is no special exhibition being shown at MIMA, it is worth visiting the place to savour its architecture.

A disappointing place to visit

WE HAD HEARD that Hartlepool has an art gallery with a good collection of modern British art. So, being in he northeast of England,  we made a detour to visit the town. However, when we arrived at the Victorian church that houses the gallery on 21 April 2026, none of this art was on display. One show had just ended, and another was due to start in early May.

Central Hartlepool

We wandered around the town centre, which was fairly cheerless. Well if we had not gone there, we would not have discovered that. 

We went to view the Angel but did not find it angelic

RIO DE JANEIRO has its tall Cristo Redentore statue with its outstretched arms, New York City has the Statue of Liberty, and Gujarat has its tall Statue of Unity. And northeast England’s Gateshead has the Angel of the North with its outstretched wings.

 

The Angel was created by the sculptor Antony Gormley, and completed in 1998. For many years I had been looking forward to seeing it ‘in the flesh’, so to speak, and today, 22 April 2026, we drove to see it. I am sorry to say that it did not impress me. The angel’s outstretched wings, with a wingspan of 177 feet reminded me not of an angel but of a rusty aeroplane. 

 

Of the many sculptures by Gormley that I have seen over the years, this Angel is not amongst my favourites. Nevertheless,  I am glad that I have seen it, and walked around its base, but I am not sure it is worth going out of your way to see it. We happened to be staying a few miles from it in Washington,  (after which a city in the USA has been named) in Tyne and Wear, so we made a small detour to see the Angel.

Castles and confectionery: a town in Yorkshire

FAMOUS FOR LIQUORICE and being the place where King Richard II died in 1400, the town of Pontefract in West Yorkshire is an interesting place to visit.

 

Apart from the remains of an extensive castle, destroyed by the Parliamentarians during the English Civil War, there are plenty of other sites worth viewing. These include the market square, a modern church built within the ruins of a much older gothic church, a late Victorian covered market, and various other old civic buildings. The town’s museum  is housed in an early twentieth century Art Nouveau edifice with some fine mosaic covered floors.

 

We ate a good lunch in the Old Counting House pub, which is within a well-preserved half-timbered building, which was constructed in 1609. The place is rich in timber beams, and the upper storey has a fine hammer-beam ceiling.

 

As for the liquorice, this was grown in and around Pontefract. We saw some plants growing in a herb garden in the grounds of the ruined castle. When I was a child, I  used to love eating Pontefract cakes. Named after the town, these were soft coin sized discs containing liquorice and sweetened with sugar. I used to call them ‘pomfret’ cakes. It turns out that is or was how some people pronounce the name of the town.

 

We spent only a few hours in Pontefract,  but the place deserves a much longer visit.

Clouds are looming over north London

Oh, Golders Green

Once it was a Jewish heartland

Now it’s more diverse

READ ABOUT GOLDERS GREEN PAST AND PRESENT IN

By Adam Yamey, and available from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/GOLDERS-GREEN-HAMPSTEAD-GARDEN-SUBURB/dp/B0BHG873FB/

A company that is more than just shoes

SEVERAL INDUSTRIAL CONCERNS have built towns or settlements to ensure that their employees have somewhere comfortable to live near to the factories where they work. An early example of this is Saltaire, which was constructed between 1851 and 1871 near Bradford for the workers in the mills of Titus Salt. In 1888, the Lever Brothers, who made a variety of products including soap, built Port Sunlight (in Cheshire), a model village for their workers. And in South Africa, my great-grandfather Franz Ginsberg was a founding father of Ginsberg Township, established near his factory in King Williams Town in 1901. I have visited these three places, but not Bournville, the Cadbury chocolate company’s workers’ village that was started in 1893. Outstanding as these examples are, nothing can compete with the workers’ facilities established in several countries all over the world by the Czechs Tomáš Baťa (1876-1932) and his son Thomas J Bata (1914-2008).

The Bata factory at East Tilbury in 2017

The Bata company was formed in Zlin (Moravia, Czechoslovakia) in 1894. It was concerned with manufacturing shoes, and continues to exist today. Soon, the business grew, and large factories were built. Accompanying these factories, and close to them, At Zlin, Bata built not a simple workers’ village, bu at large workers’ town. The company employed architects to design modernist buildings, including dwellings, shops, a cinema, a hospital, a hotel, restaurants, and other practical amenities. Not only did the company build these structures, but it also modernised industrial working conditions to make life more pleasant for their workers. In time, after WW2, Bata began expanding overseas. In the 1930s and 1940s, they established factories, each with their own workers’ model towns, in Poland, Yugoslavia, Hungary, Switzerland, Holland, England, India, USA, Canada, Chile, Kenya, Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe), and Brazil. In all their factories, Bata practised their advanced benevolent treatment of the workers. Apart from, improving working conditions, Bata made innovative developments in design and marketing.

To mark the one hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the birth of Tomáš Baťa, the Czech Centre in London is holding an exhibition, “Desire to Create: Baťa’s Architecture of Belonging”, until 12 June 2026. The small exhibition is filled with informative placards and historic photographs. Much of the show concentrates on the Bata town built around its factories at East Tilbury, on the Thames east of London. Although Bata closed operations there in 2005, many of the company’s buildings still survive (see https://londonadam.travellerspoint.com/43/, which describes my visit to East Tilbury in 2017). The exhibition at the Czech Centre is a collaboration with Bata Heritage Centre in East Tilbury. Although the exhibition is not large, it is fascinating and I am pleased I have viewed it because not only have I visited Zlin and East Tilbury, but also, I have bought pairs of comfortable shoes and sandals made and sold in India by the Bata company.

Finally, at the exhibition I learned two well-known personalities have had connections with Bata. The broadcaster John Tusa was the son of Jan Tusa, one of the first managers of Bata in Czechoslovakia, and the father of the playwright Tom Stoppard was a medical doctor in the Bata town in Zlin. When his parents fled the Nazis, the Bata family assisted them.

Biography of fiction by an author from South Africa

SOMEONE SENT ME a message on Facebook, recommending me to read “Arctic Summer”, a novel by the South African author Damon Galgut (born 1963). It was a great recommendation, and I am grateful for it. The story is about the author EM Forster (1879-1970), whose books include “A Passage to India”.

Galgut’s superbly written, well-researched, fascinating novel is a fictional biography of Forster during the period between, and including, his first two visits to India. It also mentioned Forster’s third later visit. The book is not only a biography of Forster, but also a fictional biography of the writing of “A Passage To India”: the biography of a novel. The book also explores Forster’s yearning for the physical love of men, and the frustrations he faced, many of them of his own making. And Galgut, in writing this book, also gives an insight into the difficulties that authors can face when writing fiction.

Galgut’s book reads as well as does his protagonist’s Indian novel. I read “Arctic Summer” after reading “A Passage to India”. Having read the books in this order made a lot of sense. However, if you pick up Galgut’s book first, it will most likely make you want to read “A Passage …”.

I enjoyed Galgut’s novel so much that I am keen to read some more of his work.