A castle, a chapel, and cider in Northumberland

ETAL CASTLE OR what is left of it can be found southwest of Berwick on Tweed,  a few miles of the A1 trunk road. Constructed in about 1341, by 1603, it  had fallen into disrepair and was abandoned.  Now the remains of this fortification are maintained by English Heritage.

 

Etal Castle

Next to the ruins, stands the former Presbyterian chapel. Once a place where people concentrated on the Holy Spirit, it now deals with a different kind of spirit. Currently,  the chapel contains a ‘cidery’, a place where alcoholic ciders are manufactured  using apples grown in Northumberland. Visitors are encouraged to sample some of the  ciders produced in the repurposed chapel, and bottles are available to purchase.

 

The old castle is picturesque, as is the small village that includes a row of whitewashed houses. In the village, there is a pub and a very pleasant tea room that also serves as the village shop and post office.

Where Scotland meets England and a curious gift shop

THE MITFORD SISTERS were daughters of David Freeman-Mitford, 2nd Baron Redesdale. The A68 road that runs from Edinburgh in Scotland to Darlington in England cosses the border between the two countries at Carter Bar. This pass in the Cheviot Hills is a few feet higher than the source of the River Rede, which flows through Northumberland (England) in a valley named Redesdale. The Mitford sisters’ father and grandfather were the Barons Redesdale.

 

Pipers Gift Shop at Carter Bar

Carter Bar, the place where the A68  crosses the Anglo-Scottish border is named after a toll gate that used to stand on the frontier, but has been removed or demolished.  At 1371 feet above sea level, the views over both Scotland and England are spectacular.

 

On each side of the road, there are large rocks. Each one has “England”  inscribed on one side, and “Scotland “ on the other.  The stones were sculpted by Eddie Laub.

 

When we visited Carter Bar on 28 April 2026, we saw a car parked there. Its boot was open, and filled with souvenirs for passers-by to purchase. The car bore a banner that read “Pipers Gift Shop”. An elderly man sat forlornly in the driver’s seat, and did not appear to hear us when we addressed him.

 

Carter Bar is certainly worth visiting not only to enjoy the views but also because the road leading to and from it runs through wonderful scenery.

A marquis and a sculptor and a ruined abbey in Scotland

 MUCH OF THE ABBEY church in Jedburgh is ruined. Founded in the twelfth century as an Augustinian monastery,  Jedburgh was dissolved in the sixteenth century. Now a picturesque ruin, only one part remains intact. This small chamber contains funerary monuments of the Kerr family  the marquises of Lothian.

 

The fine sculpture depicting William Schomberg Robert Kerr (1832-1870), the eighth MARQUIS of Lothian was carved in 1879. by George Frederick Watts (1817-1904).  

 

By GF Watts at Jedburgh

I was particularly interested to ‘stumble across’ this sculpture by Watts because his sculpture, “Physical Energy”, a huge bronze horseman, which stands in London’s Kensington Gardens is one I often pass while walking in that park, which is near my home.

Recycling old herring fishing boats on an island off Northumberland

HOLY ISLAND IN the North Sea is reached by travelling along a causeway that links it to the coast of Northumberland. The causeway disappears under water for several hours during high tide, which occurs twice a day.

Near the island’s harbour, there are upturned herring boat hulls. Some of them have been covered with a layer of tar. At the rear of each of these hulls, there are doors fitted. For today, these upturned, retired fishing boat hulls now serve as storage sheds.

Apparently, the fishermen of Holy Island consider it sinful to send these boats to breaker’s yards or to otherwise dispose of them. So, they recycle these herring boats (cobles) as sheds.

Art and architecture in the middle of Middlesbrough

NEW YORK CITY has its MOMA, and Middlesbrough in northeast England’s has its MIMA, which stands for Middlesbrough Institute of Modern Art.  Standing proudly in the heart of the town, these building housing MIMA is a superb piece of modern architecture.

 

MIMA in the background and sculpture by Oldenburg and Van Bruggen

Completed in 2007, this adventurous edifice was designed by a Dutch firm: Erick van Egeraat Associated Architects. The building alone is a fine work of art, most fitting for housing artworks and events connected with them.

 

During our visit on 21 April 2026, we saw several items on display, including many fascinating ceramic objects and some images relating to Middlesbrough past and present. Also, we refreshed ourselves with good coffee served in MIMA’s attractive café/restaurant. Outside the buildings, there is a large sculpture by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen called “Bottle of Notes”. Created in 1993, it the only work by these artists made in the UK. 

 

Even if there is no special exhibition being shown at MIMA, it is worth visiting the place to savour its architecture.

A disappointing place to visit

WE HAD HEARD that Hartlepool has an art gallery with a good collection of modern British art. So, being in he northeast of England,  we made a detour to visit the town. However, when we arrived at the Victorian church that houses the gallery on 21 April 2026, none of this art was on display. One show had just ended, and another was due to start in early May.

Central Hartlepool

We wandered around the town centre, which was fairly cheerless. Well if we had not gone there, we would not have discovered that. 

We went to view the Angel but did not find it angelic

RIO DE JANEIRO has its tall Cristo Redentore statue with its outstretched arms, New York City has the Statue of Liberty, and Gujarat has its tall Statue of Unity. And northeast England’s Gateshead has the Angel of the North with its outstretched wings.

 

The Angel was created by the sculptor Antony Gormley, and completed in 1998. For many years I had been looking forward to seeing it ‘in the flesh’, so to speak, and today, 22 April 2026, we drove to see it. I am sorry to say that it did not impress me. The angel’s outstretched wings, with a wingspan of 177 feet reminded me not of an angel but of a rusty aeroplane. 

 

Of the many sculptures by Gormley that I have seen over the years, this Angel is not amongst my favourites. Nevertheless,  I am glad that I have seen it, and walked around its base, but I am not sure it is worth going out of your way to see it. We happened to be staying a few miles from it in Washington,  (after which a city in the USA has been named) in Tyne and Wear, so we made a small detour to see the Angel.

Castles and confectionery: a town in Yorkshire

FAMOUS FOR LIQUORICE and being the place where King Richard II died in 1400, the town of Pontefract in West Yorkshire is an interesting place to visit.

 

Apart from the remains of an extensive castle, destroyed by the Parliamentarians during the English Civil War, there are plenty of other sites worth viewing. These include the market square, a modern church built within the ruins of a much older gothic church, a late Victorian covered market, and various other old civic buildings. The town’s museum  is housed in an early twentieth century Art Nouveau edifice with some fine mosaic covered floors.

 

We ate a good lunch in the Old Counting House pub, which is within a well-preserved half-timbered building, which was constructed in 1609. The place is rich in timber beams, and the upper storey has a fine hammer-beam ceiling.

 

As for the liquorice, this was grown in and around Pontefract. We saw some plants growing in a herb garden in the grounds of the ruined castle. When I was a child, I  used to love eating Pontefract cakes. Named after the town, these were soft coin sized discs containing liquorice and sweetened with sugar. I used to call them ‘pomfret’ cakes. It turns out that is or was how some people pronounce the name of the town.

 

We spent only a few hours in Pontefract,  but the place deserves a much longer visit.

Clouds are looming over north London

Oh, Golders Green

Once it was a Jewish heartland

Now it’s more diverse

READ ABOUT GOLDERS GREEN PAST AND PRESENT IN

By Adam Yamey, and available from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/GOLDERS-GREEN-HAMPSTEAD-GARDEN-SUBURB/dp/B0BHG873FB/