Flag of St George in Genova and England

All over England, the flag of St George – a red cross on a white background – can be seen fluttering in the breeze.  It has become more evident in recent years, either because of the football World Cup or the rise in right wing nationalistic sentiment in England, or maybe both. Arriving in Genova (Italy), I was surprised to see the flag of St George flying all over the place.

It does not fly in Genova because its inhabitants have become England football supporters. There is another reason for its prevalence.

In Genova

According to  Wikipedia,  the flag of St George has its origin in the tenth century. It was originally associated with the Crusaders, and was adopted as the ensign of the former Republic of Genova.

In the fourteenth century Englad replaced its patron saint, Edmunds the Martyr, with St George, and his flag  became used in the country.

It is believed that when  Richard the Lionheart passed through Genoa in the thirteenth century, he adopted the flag for his ships. But to do this he had to agree to pay Genova an annual tribute. This continued to be paid until 1771.

So, it seems that British nationalists and others in England are flying a ‘borrowed’ flag. We should be indebted to both Richard the Lionheart and to the mediaeval rulers of Genova.

It has been in use in this church for over 800 years

Almost every old parish church in England contains at the very least one object of great interest. Usually, the older the church, the more remarkable are the discoveries within them. Recently, I visited a church in a small village in Cambridgeshire, and saw something that made me think.

The object I saw in the Church of St Peter in the village of Coton has been in use for at least 800 years because it was constructed in the twelfth century – some time between 1100 and 1200 AD. It stands on four modern stone supports at the west end of the nave of the gothic church, whose construction commenced in the twelfth century.

The Domesday Book of 1086 lists the existence of Coton. Before 1563, there were no records of the village’s population. In that year, 21 families lived in the place. Between 1800 and 1900, Coton’s population increased from 126 to 390 (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coton%2C_Cambridgeshire). So, when the church was built and for a few centuries after its first stone was laid, Coton’s population must have been small, but not so tiny to have prevented the church from having been enlarged in stages between the fourteenth and sixteenth centuries.

As the population increased, the twelfth century object, which attracted my attention in the church, was used each time a child was born. The item that interested me is the stone font. It is a square tank with each of its four stone sides carved with geometric patterns. No two sides have the same design.

What makes the font interesting is not merely its age and carvings, but the fact that is still in use. I wonder how many children have been baptised with water from this font during the last more than 800 years, and how many more will be blessed at this ancient water receptacle in the years to come.

In a world where so many things keep changing, often at an alarming rate, it is wonderful to find something that has remained unaltered for so long, and is still in use.  

Where they sing hymns in North Mymms

RECENTLY, WE WERE on our way to Hatfield in Hertfordshire when we made a short detour to see the church of St Mary in North Mymms. Which s not far from South Mimms. The church was open, and we entered. Among several items of interest in this edifice, which dates back to the early fourteenth century, we saw a large tomb next to the north wall.

The tomb, which is made from white Derbyshire alabaster – a sort of gypsum resembling marble – is rectangular, box-shaped. Its top or lid is decorated with a portrait of a lady in Elizabethan clothing with her hands held together as if she was praying. The image is in black and was created by inscribing the stone with the design and filling the grooves with black bitumen (see: https://www.northmymmshistory.uk/2018/08/historical-treasures-of-church-of-st.html#tomb). In its simplicity the image on this sixteenth century tomb looks remarkably modern.

The tomb is the final resting place of a member of the Barforde (aka Beresford) family, but it is not known which one. The family lived in North Mymms when two of their daughters, Elizabeth and Mary, died within three months of each other, in about 1584. The image might possibly represent one or both.

As for the name of the village in which the church is located, North Mymms, the etymology of ‘Mymms’ is not known. And like the tomb which might be that of Mary and/or Elizabeth, the spelling of the places’s name has also been uncertain. Over the centuries the village’s second name has been spelled both as ‘Mymms’ and ‘Mimms’. This uncertainty remained until 20 February 1939 when Hertfordshire County Council decided that the spelling be fixed as ‘Mymms’ (see  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/North_Mymms).

Once again, we have found that by randomly visiting villages and other places in England, it is highly likely that we come across items of historical interest. The alabaster tomb, whose existence had been hitherto unknown to us, is a fine example.

Never mind the weather. Have food and drink outdoors

DURING THE COVID19 pandemic, meeting indoors was neither allowed nor encouraged in the UK. Eventually, restaurants, cafés, and pubs began providing outdoor seating areas – something that was relatively rare before the pandemic.

The plants surround an outdoor seating area at the Mall Tavern

Long after the worst of the pandemic was over, people continued to drink and eat outdoors, even in bad weather. Many hospitality establishments offer facilities for customers to eat and drink ‘alfresco’.

For example, since the pandemic years, a local pub, The Mall Tavern, in Notting Hill Gate has been occupying a bit of the road and pavement outside it, and has been placing benches and tables there.

They are still in place and very popular with customers.

Where Scotland meets England and a curious gift shop

THE MITFORD SISTERS were daughters of David Freeman-Mitford, 2nd Baron Redesdale. The A68 road that runs from Edinburgh in Scotland to Darlington in England cosses the border between the two countries at Carter Bar. This pass in the Cheviot Hills is a few feet higher than the source of the River Rede, which flows through Northumberland (England) in a valley named Redesdale. The Mitford sisters’ father and grandfather were the Barons Redesdale.

 

Pipers Gift Shop at Carter Bar

Carter Bar, the place where the A68  crosses the Anglo-Scottish border is named after a toll gate that used to stand on the frontier, but has been removed or demolished.  At 1371 feet above sea level, the views over both Scotland and England are spectacular.

 

On each side of the road, there are large rocks. Each one has “England”  inscribed on one side, and “Scotland “ on the other.  The stones were sculpted by Eddie Laub.

 

When we visited Carter Bar on 28 April 2026, we saw a car parked there. Its boot was open, and filled with souvenirs for passers-by to purchase. The car bore a banner that read “Pipers Gift Shop”. An elderly man sat forlornly in the driver’s seat, and did not appear to hear us when we addressed him.

 

Carter Bar is certainly worth visiting not only to enjoy the views but also because the road leading to and from it runs through wonderful scenery.

Art and architecture in the middle of Middlesbrough

NEW YORK CITY has its MOMA, and Middlesbrough in northeast England’s has its MIMA, which stands for Middlesbrough Institute of Modern Art.  Standing proudly in the heart of the town, these building housing MIMA is a superb piece of modern architecture.

 

MIMA in the background and sculpture by Oldenburg and Van Bruggen

Completed in 2007, this adventurous edifice was designed by a Dutch firm: Erick van Egeraat Associated Architects. The building alone is a fine work of art, most fitting for housing artworks and events connected with them.

 

During our visit on 21 April 2026, we saw several items on display, including many fascinating ceramic objects and some images relating to Middlesbrough past and present. Also, we refreshed ourselves with good coffee served in MIMA’s attractive café/restaurant. Outside the buildings, there is a large sculpture by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen called “Bottle of Notes”. Created in 1993, it the only work by these artists made in the UK. 

 

Even if there is no special exhibition being shown at MIMA, it is worth visiting the place to savour its architecture.

A disappointing place to visit

WE HAD HEARD that Hartlepool has an art gallery with a good collection of modern British art. So, being in he northeast of England,  we made a detour to visit the town. However, when we arrived at the Victorian church that houses the gallery on 21 April 2026, none of this art was on display. One show had just ended, and another was due to start in early May.

Central Hartlepool

We wandered around the town centre, which was fairly cheerless. Well if we had not gone there, we would not have discovered that. 

A new book about discovering the delights of England will be available soon

I AM AWAITING the arrival of a proof copy of my NEW BOOK about exploring lesser-known places in England to arrive from the printer.

After I have checked it for quality issues, it will soon be available for you to read.

SO, WATCH THIS SPACE!

A little introduction to the forthcoming book: