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From revolution to religion and meditation

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SRI AUROBINDO (1872-1950) lived in Baroda between 1893 and 1906. During this period, he was an official in the Gaekwad’s government, a professor of English, and the Vice Principal of Baroda College, now the Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda.

Map at Aurobindo Ashram in Baroda

Today, Aurobindo is best known as a spiritual leader, who spent much of his life in Pondicherry. However, before this he was a keen supporter of ridding India of its domination by the British. During his term as Vice Principal, he began taking an active interest in the growing independence movement.

In 1906, he shifted to Calcutta to become the first principal of National College (now Jadavpur University), which was founded to provide national education to Indian youth. He resigned in 1907 because of his increased involvement in anti-British activities.

In May 1908, Aurobindo was imprisoned for a year because he was suspected of having been involved in the fatal Alipore Bomb case. He was acquitted. During his imprisonment, his interests began to move from revolution to religion. He began practising yoga, and thinking about spiritual matters.

After his release, the British security services kept him under observation despite the fact that his active involvement in nationalist activities was waning. By 1910, he had fled to Pondicherry, which was then a French colony and out of reach of the British authorities. From then on, his activities as a spiritual leader, for which he is best known, took off.

The house where he lived in Baroda between 1900 and 1906 stands surrounded by well tended gardens. It is now known as an Aurobindo ashram. People who believe in him visit the place to meditate and enjoy its peaceful atmosphere.

At the end of one of the gardens, there is a stage. Behind the stage, there is a large map on a wall. It shows the outlines of British India before it became divided into Bangladesh, Burma, India, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka. I do not know when this map was drawn, but it is interesting that it does not depict modern India alone.

As we wandered around the place, I wondered how many of its visitors seeking spiritual solace consider Aurobindo’s earlier less peaceful approach to life.

Smoke and flames in a Muslim mausoleum in Baroda (Gujarat)

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THE HAZIRA MAQBARA is an impressive octagonal structure in Baroda (Gujarat). It was built in about 1586 in the Mughal style of architecture, such as can be found in Delhi. This beautiful mausoleum houses the graves of Qutb-ud-din Muhammad Khan who was the tutor of Salim, son and successor of Akbar, and also that of his son Naurang Khan who held important posts in Gujarat under Akbar. There are other graves within the building and also nearby on land near it.

The various graves are covered with colourful cloths upon which red rose heads are placed. The roses are replaced daily, and the cloths every Thursday. This we were told by an elderly man who had been praying loudly within the main central chamber of the mausoleum.

Apart from the beauty of the building and its wonderful jaalis (latticework window screens), I was impressed by some things that I have noticed in many other Muslim mausoleums in India.

Incense stick near some gravestones

Within the mausoleum and close to the graves outside it, there were incense sticks (agarbatti) burning, releasing small clouds of fragrant smelling smoke. Within the mausoleum, I spotted at least two oil lamps (diyas), each with small flickering flames.

Agarbatti and diyas are commonly found in Hindu temples, and often at the beginning of the day in shops, restaurants, etc. I first noticed them being used in Islamic settings in India in Sufi dargahs (shrines containing graves) in Bangalore when going on excellent guided walks led by my friend Mansour Ali. Later I begun noticing these things, which I had initially assumed were only associated with Hinduism, in places associated with Islam. I have discussed this commonality of Hindu and Muslim practices in one chapter of my new book about travels in India, which is available from Amazon (eg https://www.amazon.co.uk/HITLER-LOCK-OTHER-TALES-INDIA/dp/B0CFM5JNX5/ ) AND if you live in India, from https://store.pothi.com/book/adam-yamey-hitler-lock-and-other-tales-india/ .

Other chapters in my book about my experiences of visiting India cover a wide variety of subjects. The book, which is aimed both at those who ‘know’ India and those who do not, is both informative and entertaining.

British soldiers on the wall in a house in Baroda

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BY THE VERY EARLY 19th century, the armies of the Marathas had been beaten by the armed forces of the British East India Company. After this, from 1805 onwards until 1947, the State of Baroda was ruled by a Hindu Maratha dynasty – the Gaekwads of Baroda. Put simply, the Gaekwads controlled the internal affairs of the state in such a way that British interests were not damaged, and the British controlled the external affairs of the state.

Between 1849 and 1854, Bhau Tambekar (Vithal Khanderao) was the Diwan (prime minister) of Baroda. He lived in a large building, which was probably constructed in the early to mid 19th century. Known as Tambekar Wada, this typical Maratha-style mansion has three storeys and surrounds a courtyard. Currently, the first floor of the front (eastern part) of the building is the only part open to the public.

The part of the building that can be visited is a long rectangular hall with a wooden jaali (perforated screen) near one end of it. The walls of this room are covered with beautiful detailed paintings from floor to ceiling. Many of them depict scenes from the Mahabharata, Ramayana, and Hindu religious images. However, the north wall of the hall is even more fascinating.

Most of the north wall is covered with a mural depicting a battle between the British East India Company and the Marathas. Most of the picture shows features of the British forces in great detail. There are even several flags that resemble Union Jacks. Some British soldiers, dressed in red uniforms, can be seen riding elephants. Whoever painted this wall had a good eye for both detail and representation of battles.

On the same wall as the battle scene, there are several smaller paintings depicting European men and women. On one of these, a woman in European garb seems to be consoling another woman. In another, a man wearing a red jacket is looking at a European lady affectionately.

The purpose of the painted hall is not known for sure. It has been suggested that it was for entertaining guests. The small part enclosed by the screen might have been reserved for ladies. In its heyday, purdah would have been observed in the house. The hall has a set of windows through which one can access a narrow balcony that extends along the entire length of the eastern side of the house. This terrace has a perforated screen through which people on the balcony could look out onto the street without fear of being seen by passers-by.

Although this December (2023), we are enjoying our fourth visit to Baroda, we would not have known about the Tambekar Wada had our friend Nandita A not told us about it. I am very pleased that she introduced us to this gem hidden within the narrow backstreets of Baroda’s Dandia Bazaar district.

Africans in a royal procession in Kutch painted in 1876

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WHAT REMAINS OF the Aina Mahal Palace in Bhuj (Kutch, Gujarat) after the powerful earthquake of 2001 is now open to the public as a fascinating museum. One of its many remarkable exhibits is a painting, which is 15 metres long and 22 cm wide. Painted in 1876 by Mr Juma Ibrahin Wadha, it depicts in minute detail a Kutch State parade during the reign of Maharao Pragmalji II, who was on the throne between 1860 and 1875.

The faces in the painting are all portraits of individuals – actual depictions, not stylised images. The degree of detailing is superb – almost photographic, yet still artistic.

Amongst the many faces that can be seen on the painting are several which have unmistakably black African features. They are all soldiers dressed in armour and guarding the Maharani, the Maharao’s queen. It is possible that they might have been eunuchs, but detailed as the picture is, this cannot be ascertained by examining it!

Black Africans travelled to India (mostly as slaves) from East Africa to Gujarat and Kutch during the 14th to 17th centuries. Mainly of Bantu descent, many of them converted to Islam. Some of them rose to high positions in society. For example, one of them became a general, who founded the Sidi Saiyedd mosque in Ahmedabad. Their descendants are known as members of the Siddi community. Known as Sheedhi in Pakistan, there is apparently a significant number of them in Lowe Sindh and Karachi. Currently, there are about 50000 Siddis in India, of which about one third live not in Gujarat but in Karnataka.

There are many other interesting details on the picture of the parade, but it was the depictions of Siddi soldiers that particularly caught my attention.

Art, Alembic, and brewing in Baroda

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THE SINGER LATA MANGESHKAR (1929-2022) has only ever appeared in one advertising film. It was for a medical product, a cough syrup, called Glycolin. This stuff was manufactured by the Alembic pharmaceutical company of Baroda, founded in 1907. In 1960, it was the first company to manufacture penicillin in India. Under the leadership of the Amin family, Alembic produces a wide variety of pharmaceutical products.

The company owns a huge ‘campus’ in north Baroda. This has been named Alembic City. Part of it, which contains repurposed former factory buildings, has been developed to create an art hub, which has been named Alembic Art District.

Alembic Art District

The Art District contains a museum that illustrates the history of the Alembic company. Other buildings house artists’ studios. These are given free of charge to selected artists who have applied for them. There is also gallery space.

A food court has been created. Nearby, there is a good Japanese restaurant (called Bento B). Next door to this is The Brewery.

Those who are familiar with Gujarat will know it is a teetotal state – sale and consumption of alcohol is forbidden. So, what is with The brewery? Well, it is a brewery, but alcohol is not brewed here. It is a kombucha Brewery. We sat in the stylish restaurant within The Brewery, and enjoyed the best kombucha I have ever tasted.

Like the Tate Modern and the Battersea Power Station, both repurposed former industrial sites, Alembic Art District contains remnants of its former existence. However, the resulting environment that has been created is much more delightful than the two places in London mentioned above.

A slow journey in the west of India

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OUR JOURNEY FROM Bhuj to Baroda (Vadodara), both in Gujarat, began yesterday at 650 am and ended at our hotel just after 8 pm. The distance we travelled was about 265 miles. There are direct trains between Bhuj and Baroda, but these were fully booked on the day we wanted to travel (i.e., 30th November 2023).

The first ‘leg’ of our journey was on a train that carried us from Bhuj to Sabarmati Junction – one of Ahmedabad’s several railway stations. The other passengers in our compartment were 4 young girls and a couple of young men returning to university after their Diwali break. We noted that the girls talked to each other. So, did the boys. But the girls and boys did not converse with each other and showed no interest in each other. The train rattled at high speed through the flat countryside and arrived at Sabarmati only about 8 minutes late. Unlike many Indian trains I have been on, the Bhuj to Sabarmati Superfast had no vendors wandering up and down the train.

It is a few miles between Sabarmati Junction and Ahmedabad’s centrally located main station. We hired an autorickshaw to take us between Sabarmati Jn and the Moti Mahal restaurant near the main station. Our driver tore through the heavy traffic narrowly missing numerous collisions. The eatery proved to be a scruffy but extremely popular place – noisy and lively. We enjoyed a good light lunch before walking to the station.

Although it was only about 200 yards between the restaurant and the station, it was necessary to cross an incredibly busy road with fast moving vehicles. We asked an autorickshaw driver if he would drive us there. He refused, but kindly offered to help us across the road, which resembled a disorderly road race. Using his arms like a traffic policeman he shepherded us across the thoroughfare. Even with his help it was a hair-raising experience.

We had to wait for our next train for about two hours on platform 6. The train we were about to catch was the Porbandar Shalimar Superfast. This train leaves Porbandar in Saurashtra (part of Gujarat) at 850 am on day 1 and arrives at Shalimar (a station in Calcutta) at 3.35 am on day 3 – having travelled a distance of 2544 km. Our journey on this train lasted just under two hours, arriving in Baroda about 20 minutes late.

She sells mats to passengers in the train

Unlike the train from Bhuj, the train to Shalimar was well populated by vendors. The seemingly endless procession of sales people were offering: bottled water; hot tea; snacks including biryani and bhel poori; bags of apples; and mobile phone chargers and cables. One lady in a colourful sari was selling attractive square mats at 10 Rupees each. Every now and then, a deformed invalid literally scuttled along the filthy floor of the corridor. He stopped at each compartment and banged his collecting pot ominously on the ground. Only a few passengers gave him coins.

The sun had set when our train pulled out of Ahmedabad. Through the open window, I saw many small villages, many of them with Hindu temples adorned with coloured lights – many of them flashing decorously. I could also see many brightly lit shops. Within the train, I had an excellent view of the door to one toilet. Even when it was closed it vibrated furiously as the train sped along. Many passengers peered inside the loo, but few dared to enter it.

The train seemed to travel even faster than the one from Bhuj, and it was a relief to disembark in Baroda’s lovely station. After another autorickshaw drive, we arrived at our comfortable hotel. Our reception there was a little reminiscent of an episode from “Fawlty Towers”. Once this was, over, things went smoothly and we enjoyed a good dinner in its dining room.

A wonderful little bookshop in Baroda

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A FEW MINUTES WALK from our hotel in BARODA (Gujarat) brings you to Patel Bookstore. The owner of this small bookshop stocks ‘pre-loved’ (not ‘secondhand’) books. Some of them are arranged on surfaces under the verandah in front of his shop and on its counter. The rest of them are on shelves and on the floor of the part of his store behind the counter. The shop has a chaotic appearance, but I am sure Mr Patel knows what he has in stock.

Mr Patel, a friendly gentleman, has a huge stock of books in English – much fiction and slightly less nonfiction. He also sells books printed in Gujarati.

The owner of the shop is happy to buy back books you have bought from him. When you make a purchase, he writes the price you paid in the book, and how much he would be prepared to buy it back when you have read it. He is also happy to buy other volumes that you wish to dispose of.

Even though I could not see many books that appealed to me, I love visiting idiosyncratic bookstores like that run by Mr Patel.

A beneficient ruler of a kingdom now part of Gujarat

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THE AINA MAHAL (‘Palace of Mirrors) in Bhuj (Kutch, Gujarat) was constructed in about 1750, and badly damaged during the terrible earthquake of 2001. Luckily, some of the palace survived, and several rooms containing an intriguing variety of objects can be visited by the public. Above these, there is another floor, which is not accessible to the public. A prominent member of the royal family of Kutch, with whom we have become friendly, kindly showed us around these rooms, which include the old Durbar Hall where the ruler, the Maharao, used to hold audiences. After 1868, when a new palace, the gothic revival style Pragmahal, was built, the rulers of Kutch used its larger durbar.

The old durbar Hall in the Aina Mahal contains fine painted portraits of some of the previous Maharaos. One of these depicts Maharao Desarji II, who ruled from 1819 to 1860. Amongst his many achievements he encouraged the study of mathematics, geography, and astronomy. He developed schools and hospitals. And he also put an end to slave trading in Kutch. In addition, he put an end to the practice of sati (‘self’-immolation of widows during their husbands’ cremations).

His son Pragmalji II, who ruled from 1860 to 1875, not only had the Pragmahal place built but also encouraged education. It was during his reign that the Alfred School was built. It was named in honour of Queen Victoria’s son Prince Alfred, who visited India in 1869/70.

My wife’ great great grandfather, Laxmidas Ravji Sapat, was the 11th headmaster of the Alfred High School between 1888 and 1892. This was during the reign of Maharao Khengarji III, who ruled Kutch from 1876 to 1942. He loved wildlife and took an interest in education. Amongst the many things he did was establishing the Museum of Kutch and the Jubilee Hospital – both in Bhuj. He also helped Laxmidas Ravji Sapat.

After being headmaster of the Alfred School, Laxmidas and his son-in-law went to London to study law, Mr Thacker, at Middle Temple. Going to London to study was expensive. As both Laxmidas and his son-in-law, Mr Thacker (my wife’s great grandfather) were bright, their community, the Kutchi Bhatias, clubbed together to help finance the education of these two promising men. Additional money was donated by the Maharao (Khengarji III), who, as already mentioned, was keen on promoting education.

I am grateful that we were privileged to have been shown around a part of the Aina Mahal not open to the public. Apart from seeing something new and having a member of the royal family to explain things, we managed to see portraits of his ancestors, each of which was accompanied by labels that summarised their achievements.

Red coloured meat dish from Rajasthan

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LAL MAS IS a traditional meat dish that originated in Rajasthan. Its name means ‘red meat’ and its colour comes from the use of mild, fragrant, fresh red chillies. The best sort to use are those grown at Mathania in Rajasthan, but if these are not available, Kashmiri chillies can be used but they are less satisfactory. Originally, lal mas used to be prepared to feed hunters after a day of hunting. The meat being game.

We have been staying at the Sharad Baug Palace homestay in Bhuj (Kutch, Gujarat), which is owned and run by members of the Royal family of Kutch. Several members of the family are great cooks. The food they have been preparing for our evening meals has been superbly tasty.

Last night, one of the family gave us a very special treat. While we watched, he prepared lal mas on a pot heated on a wood fired brazier in the garden. The smoke from the burning wood enhances the flavour of the dish.

Even if I knew the exact recipe for lal mas, it would be pointless giving it to you. This is because to achieve a good result, the person cooking it must be constantly tasting the sauce and adding ingredients as required, as well as checking the degree of tenderness of the meat. This is something that cannot be described in writing.

That said, this is, roughly speaking, how he prepared the lal mas. First, good quality cold-pressed mustard oil was heated to a high temperature. Then, he added whole spices including the Mathania chillies. Next, chopped onions, followed by pureed onions and pureed Mathania chillies. Following this, the goat meat was added. Later, chopped tomatoes followed by ginger and fresh green chillies – both minced. After a while at various stages, other ingredients including ground cumin, turmeric, coriander powder, fenugreek leaves (added at the end), hot red chilli powder, salt, and water were added to the stew. Throughout the cooking process, which took almost two hours, the stew has to be stirred often, and water added as required so as to maintain the sauce’s thick consistency and to prevent the spice mixture from burning.

I can say, without exaggeration, that the resulting dish was one of, if not, the very best Indian meat dishes I have ever eaten. It was fragrant, tasty, and not too piquant. It was without fault.

We are very grateful that our host took the time and care to produce this miracle of culinary art for us.

Piles of stones and prayers by those seeking to build a home

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THE PUARESHWAR MAHADEV Shiv temple is about 24 miles west of Bhuj. Built about 1200 years ago, it is possibly the oldest surviving Hindu temple in the Kutch region of Gujarat. Partially restored, this attractive small mandir is still in use but has lost most of its roof.

At Puareshwar

As we approached the temple, I noticed that near it, there were numerous small piles of stones. Each of the precarious looking piles consisted of several rock’s or fragments of masonry piled carefully, one on top of another. I asked our driver, who had suggested we visit this temple on our way to Narayan Sarovar, about these small piles. He said that they were constructed by people, praying to obtain or build a home of their own.

After visiting, Narayan Sarovar, its lake and mandir, we stopped to see the mandir at Koteshwar, which is on a spit of land near India’s border with Pakistan. Outside this temple, there were many piles of stones just like we had seen at Puareshwar.

Although I have visited many Hindu temples in India during 30 years of travelling to the country, it was only yesterday, the 27th of November 2023, that I first became aware of these small stone offerings. According to one online article I found (https://medium.com/six-word-photo-story-challenge/prayer-stone-stacks-a-belief-b7fc0edc5d9a), stones are piled outside temples all over India by people hoping to build their own homes. I will now look out for them whenever I visit a mandir.