Tag Archives: Rajasthan

Riding from Udaipur to Ahmedabad: a road trip

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TODAY WE TRAVELLED by road from Udaipur in Rajasthan to Ahmedabad in the neighbouring state, Gujarat. The 158 mile journey took us about 4.5 hours with a brief stop for tea.

South of Udaipur in Rajasthan

The hilly scenery between Udaipur and the frontier between Rajasthan and Gujarat was pleasant. It was mostly rural with few industrial buildings.

On entering Gujarat, everything changed. The terrain became flat and the countryside was liberally dotted with industrial structures, both small and large. In addition, there were plenty of fields for growing crops. Many of these fields were equipped with elaborate irrigation systems. Compared with the delightful, almost ar arcadian landscape in south5 Rajasthan, the landscape in the part of Gujarat north of Ahmedabad is far from attractive.

Until we reached the outskirts of Ahmedabad, the traffic on the dual-carriageway highway was light. Most of the vehicles we met were trucks. We saw only a few private cars.

After passing Ahmedabad airport, we entered the old city via the recently constructed Sabarmati Riverside road. This passes beneath a bridge being constructed for the new Ahmedabad to Bombay superfast railway, which should e running in about 2 years time.

Although the journey was not the most fascinating we have made on Indian roads,we were driven enough superbly by Rajesh, a driver engaged for us my the helpful Mr Yashwant of PP Tour and Travels in central Udaipur.

A shrine near the Pichola Lake in Udaipur

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 A DARGAH IS a shrine enclosing the grave of a (usually) Sufi saint or ‘pir’ (a Sufi spiritual guide). During my travels in India, I have visited many dargahs. Today (27  November 2025), we came across a dargah close to the Imli Ghat and the city wall by the shore of Pichola Lake in Udaipur.

 

The tree growing within the dargah

The dargah was contained in a decoratively perforated stainless steel enclosure. Part of the shrine is the trunk of a tall, growing tree. A gentleman who has a shop nearby showed me that part of the trunk is hollowed out. This space is covered by a decorated cloth such as can often be found draped on Muslim gravestones.  Fresh flowers were scattered at various places in the dargah.

 

What interested me is something I have noticed before in dargahs. That is the presence of smoking agarbatti (incense sticks), similar to those used at Hindu religious shrines and temples.

 

In the case of the dargah near the Imli Ghat,  another feature that caught my attention was the tree growing within it. Maybe, it was not significant,  but it reminded me of the multitude of Hindu shrines located around the trunks of trees.

 

In my book “CORACLES AND CROCODILES: 101 TALES OF INDIA”, I have written about practices shared by both Hindus and Muslims in India. Although the two religions differ considerably, it seems to me that some rituals (rather than beliefs) are commonly used by Indian adherents of both of them. Some other commonalities related to religious rituals are also described in my book.

[My book is available from Amazon]

A park on an island in a lake at Udaipur (Rajasthan)

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THE FATEH SAGAR is one of the 4 lakes within the city of Udaipur in Rajasthan.  It is man-made,  having g first been established by Maharana Fateh Singh of Mewar in the 1680s. Two centuries later, the dam holding the lake was washed away. In 1889, a new dam was built, the lake enlarged,and given its present name. The lake is a little way outside the centre of the city and is surrounded by hills. It is a peaceful place.

 

At Nehru Park

Electrically powered boats ferry visitors to and from an island in the lake. This island contains the well-maintained Nehru Park, which was established in 1967 and named after Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru.

 

The small park is beautifully planted with trees and other plants. Various paths criss – cross the island and one runs around its perimeter. The perimeter path is punctuated by circular domed pavilions that provide shade. There is also an elaborate fountain system that was out of action when we visited the park one morning.

 

Refreshments can be obtaine at a small cafe behind which there is a very clean set of WCs.  We spent a very pleasant hour on this small island, and while we were there we spotted some interesting birds which neither of us could identify.

 Nehru Park is a lovely refuge: a place to escape from the hustle and bustle of the historic  entre of Udaipur.

A disappointment in the heart of Udaipur (Rajasthan)

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THE ENTRY TICKETS to the City Palace in Udaipur (Rajasthan, India) were reduced in price today (25 November 2025) because parts of it were closed because a major wedding had just been held within them.

The palace, which is perched on a hill high above Pichola Lake, began to be constructed in 1553. Over the next 400 years, its construction continued. Overall, it is an example of typical Rajput architecture, sharing features that can be seen in other royal palaces in Rajasthan.

On entering the palace today, we confronted with a sea of debris, the remains of temporary structures used during the wedding. It looked as if a bomb had exploded. The crowds of tourists had to avoid bumping into the numerous workmen carrying boards and planks that were the remains of the demolished temporary structures. It was not a pleasant way to enter a historic building.

Visitors to the palace are obliged to follow a route through its various rooms and courtyards. The passageways co necting these are narrow, featureless, airless, and crowded. Moving through the palace was an unpleasant experience.

Was it worth the effort? I think it was not. Evenif there had been no debris and workmen, the palace would not have impressed me. The City Palace in Udaipu is no way as elegant and beautiful as the royal palaces I have seen elsewhere in Rajasthan, notably those in Amer (Amber near Jaipur), Jodhpur, and Bikaner.

Well, after having seen the City Palace, one of the main ‘attractions’ of Udaipur, I would certainly give it a miss should we ever visit the city again.

An interesting discovery in a café in Udaipur (India)

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A MAJOR ATTRACTION in Udaipur (Rajasthan,  India) is its Lake Pichola. There are plenty of hotels and eateries close to the water. One of these is Jheels Ginger café.  This small establishment is next to the waterside and has great views of the lake. Also it has a small bookshelf. On it, my wife found a book that aroused my interest.

 

An entry in the Canadian dictionary

The book, which was falling to pieces, was “Compact Dictionary of Canadian English” edited by Thomas Paikeday, and published 1976 in Toronto. It was the first Dictionary of English as used and spoken in Canada.

 

Thomas Paikeday was born in Thiruvananthapuram, India in 1926. He completed his studies at Madras Christian College (1958) and the University of Madras (1960). Then, he became a lecturer of English at the University of Delhi. In 1964, after studying in the USA at Boston College and the University of Michigan, he became a lexicographer.

 

Paikeday was a pioneer in the use of computers for collecting and analysing data for compiling dictionaries. He  became highly respected amongst lexicographers, linguists, and other scholars. He died in 2019 at Oakville, Ontario, Canada.

 

It was strange discovering a dictionary of Canadian English lying discarded in a café in Udaipur. But given that it was in India that its editor was born, it seemed quite both appropriate and really amazing.

Feeding the pigeons in Jaipur (Rajasthan)

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Here is a brief excerpt from my book “88 DAYS IN INDIA: A JOURNEY OF MEMORY AND DISCOVERY”, In this sample, I am writing about pigeons in Jaipur (Rajasthan) and elsewhere:

“While we were being driven around the city, we passed areas where food and
water were being distributed to some of the city’s many pigeons. The provision
of food for pigeons (as well as street dogs and other animals) is commonly
found in many other cities and villages we have visited in India. In Jaipur, we
saw vendors selling passersby seeds for the birds. Earlier in 2024, when we
were in Istanbul, we saw similar vendors at an area (near the Spice Bazaar)
where pigeons were plentiful. As a child during the early 1960s, my parents
used to buy me cones full of corn for feeding the pigeons in the Piazza Signoria
in Florence (Italy). Long ago, I remember pigeon feed being sold in London’s
Trafalgar Square. However, now Londoners regard pigeons as pests, which
should not be fed. One of London’s former Mayors, Ken Livingstone, who
ended selling of pigeon food in the square in 2001, called pigeons: “rats with
wings”.

Although feeding pigeons has caused India’s population of these
creatures to increase to alarmingly high levels, Shreemoyee Chakraborty
(quoted in an article published by theprint.in in November 2024) noted:
“In India feeding pigeons is not just a habit; it has a religious and
cultural significance as well.”

In an online article about Vastu Shastra (published on vastulabh.com), it was
pointed out that:
“Pigeons have long been associated with Goddess Lakshmi, the deity
of wealth and prosperity. According to Vastu Shastra, pigeons are
believed to bring positive energy and good fortune into the home.
However, there are differing opinions and specific guidelines on how to
interpret their presence.”

So, it is likely that feeding these winged creatures in India has a good chance of
continuing despite the occasional attempts of some municipal authorities,
including in Jaipur, to reduce their population.“

If you wish to purchase a copy of this book, hasten to Amazon’s website:

Once it celebrated Muhammad Ali Jinnah now it honours Subhash Chandra Bose

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Subhash Marg, a busy bazaar street in Bikaner (Rajasthan, India), It leads northwest from the 16th century Kote Gate in the heart of the city and runs alongside a railway track.

In the past, this road had been named Jinnah Road in honour of the founder of Pakistan. Still known as Jinnah Road by many of its Muslim inhabitants, in 1967 it was given its new name (Subhash Marg). According to an article published in the Hindustan Times in 2016, neither Muhammed Ali Jinnah nor Subhash Chandra Bose ever visited Bikaner.

We ate an uninspired non-veg lunch at the Muslim run Simran Restaurant on the road. On the bill, its address was given as “Subhash Marg (Jinnah-Road)”, and that was 57 years after the street’s name was changed.

Street name changes are not uncommon in India, but usually the old names of a thoroughfare are remembered better than the often-forgotten new names

A not quite religious experience in a temple in rural Rajasthan

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IN DECEMBER 2024, we hired a taxi to take us from Jaisalmer to Bikaner: both are cities in Rajastahan (India). As it was a journey that was going to take over five hours, we decided we needed a break en-route.

When we asked our rather sullen driver to find a place for us to stop for a light lunch, he drove us off the main road into a small town (an overgrown village) called Ramdevra. The modest place where we ate satisfactory vegetarian food was not one frequented by foreign visitors. People hanging around the establishment were clearly curious about us, but in a friendly way. After lunch, our driver encouraged us to walk to the Sree Baba Ramdev Temple, for which the town is famous. It was much further away from the restaurant than the “few minutes” our driver had told us. Near the temple, there were many stalls where lumps of different coloured crystalline dhoop (aromatic products made with herbs and resins, which when heated or burned release fragrant smoke) and incense sticks were for sale. It was very clear that his choosing to stop in Ramdevra was to visit the temple, which turned out to be a crowded place in a huge shed filled with Hindu shrines.

It was mass-production Hinduism. Impatient crowds of people, including us, were hurried along narrow passageways demarcated by metal railings. The maze of railings made the place look like a cattle market filled with animal holding pens.  The idea seemed to be to get the devotees to donate money at the several shrines in exchange for blessings that were performed by pandits as quickly as they could manage. Rather than feeling like a spiritual experience, it felt more like being a product on a fast-moving industrial conveyor belt. Our driver seemed pleased that he had visited the temple complex. We did not share his enthusiasm, and were pleased when we returned to the highway.

Beware of upsetting wealthy benefactors: a word of warning to Donald Trump

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A JAIN BANIA (BUSINESS MAN) called Hiranand Shah travelled from Rajasthan to Patna in 1652. In 1707, he financed Prince Farrukhsiyar sufficiently for him to become the Mughal Emperor (he ruled from 1713 to 1719). Manik Chand, a later head of this Jain family was then rewarded with the title ‘Jagat Seth’, which means ‘banker or merchant of the world’. By the eighteenth century, the family or house of of Jagat Seth was the largest banking house in the Mughal Empire.

 

The Nawabs of Bengal used the banking services of the house of Jagat Seth to pay tribute to the Mughal emperors in Delhi. William Dalrymple wrote that the Jagat Seth family were able to:

“… make or break anyone in Bengal, including the ruler, and their political instincts were sharp as their financial ones.” (quote from Wikipedia)

 

When the young Siraj-ud-Daulah became Nawab of Bengal in 1756, he alienated many people including Jagat Seth Mehtab Chand. Siraj demanded 30 million rupees as a tribute from the banker. When the banker refused, Siraj-ud-Daulah  slapped him. As a result, Jagat Seth took part in the conspiracy to defeat Siraj-ud-Daulah.  He and others, including Mir Jafar, helped the British, led by Robert Clive,  to defeat Siraj-ud-Daulah at the Battle of Palashi (Plassey) in 1757.  Jagat Seth’s money funded the British to help them defeat Siraj-ud-Daulah.

 

The Jagat Seth family was at least as influential as tycoons such as the Rothschilds in Europe and figures such as Jeff Bezos and Donald Trump’s current ‘chum’ Elon Musk. Taking the story of Siraj-ud-Daulah as an example, one could say it is best not to upset your wealthy supporters.  So, Donald, it would be best not to upset Elon!

 

Soon after the Battle of Palashi,  the fortunes of the house of Jagat Seth began to decline. Today, this remarkable family is commemorated by an opulent mansion, which they built in Murshidabad, sometime after it became the capital of Bengal (for 70 years during the eighteenth century). In 1980, the house was opened up as a museum, which is privately owned and run. We visited this place before we knew about the family’s involvement with the downfall of Siraj-ud-Daulah and the following capture of Bengal by the British. Like many other places in Murshidabad,  it is a fascinating reminder of Murshidabad‘s history during the era when Europeans, especially the British,  were beginning to make their mark on Bengal.

He took his own drinking water from India to England in 1902

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THE MOST DISAPPOINTING tourist ‘attraction’ in Jaipur, is the City Palace. After more than 3 weeks travelling in Rajasthan, I can safely say that this royal palace is the least interesting place we have visited. Architecturally, it lacks the finesse seen in other royal palaces. In addition it is far less interesting historically.

Not wishing to seem too negative about the place, I will mention one item that did catch my attention. It is a huge silver vessel, a jar: possibly the largest silver jar that has ever been made. It and several others were made to carry water from the Ganges to England. The water was for the use of Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh II during his visit to England to attend the coronation of King Edward VII in 1902. Each of the jars could carry about 400 gallons of water.

While this is a fascinating exhibit, I do not believe that the palace is worth visiting. Its admission fees are exorbitant by local standards: minimum of £10 for non-Indians and minimum of £3 for Indians. Additional charges are levied to see certain exhibits within the palace compound. These prices must be compared with the admission fees for the palace’s far more beautiful and much more fascinating neighbour, the Jantar Mantar (non-Indians pay £2, and Indians pay 50 pence).