Tag Archives: Genova

Picasso in Liguria: from Genova to Guernica

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During a visit to the monumental Staglieno Cemetery in Genova, I was surprised to see several gravestones bearing the name ‘Picasso’.

In Staglieno Cemetery

The artist Pablo Picasso, creator of the famous “Guernica” image and many other artworks, was born in Malaga, Spain, and died in Mougins, France.

After seeing the Picasso name commemorated in several places within the Staglieni Cemetery in Genova,  I became curious, and did a little research on the Internet.

I found out that Picasso is a family name that is typically found in the Italian province of Liguria, in which Genova is situated. The artist Pablo Picasso’s maternal great-grandfather, Tommaso Picasso, moved from Liguria to Spain in about 1807. The name Picasso is only part of the artist’s full name, which is, hold your breath: Pablo Diego José Francisco de Paula Juan Nepomuceno María de los Remedios Cipriano de la Santísima Trinidad Ruiz y Picasso. Ruiz & Picasso were respectively his father’s and mother’s surnames.

Whether or not the Picassos who are intermediate in the cemetery in Genova are closely, or even remotely, related to the famous artist I have yet to discover.

So far, all that I can conclude is that in the case of Pablo Picasso one can say it is a case of ‘from Genova to’ Guernica’

A Soviet soldier buried in Genova (Genoa)

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The Cimitero Staglieno in Genova contains a remarkable collection of funerary sculpture. But I will not  write about this now. Instead, I  am going to concentrate on only  one memorial – something I was not expecting to see in this cemetery.

The monument is in part of the cemetery dedicated to those who were killed in WW2. The bodies of these unfortunate people are either in the graveyard or commemorated there because their remains were cremated, or otherwise disposed of, by the Germans in their various camps for prisoners, including concentration camps. The monument that attracted my attention has its inscription both in Italian and  Russian. It is the grave of Fyodor Andrianovič Poletaev (1909-1945).

In Stglieno Cemetery

Fyodor’s biography is described in detail at https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/F%C3%ABdor_Andrianovi%C4%8D_Poletaev, but I will summarise it here.

He was born in  the Ryazan Oblast in Imperial Russia. At the outset of ww2, he was called up to join the Red Army.

In June 1942, Fyodor was captured by the Germans and became a prisoner of war. After being transferred from one POW camp to another, he arrived in July 1944 at  a concentration camp at Tortona, near Genova. He escaped from this camp, and then joined a group of Italian partisans fighting in the Appenine Hills. He died fighting in a battle at Cantalupa. He was buried in the Staglieni Cemetery in Genova, where his monument can be seen.

Thus, a labourer from the Sovie Union ended up a hero in Italy.

Flag of St George in Genova and England

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All over England, the flag of St George – a red cross on a white background – can be seen fluttering in the breeze.  It has become more evident in recent years, either because of the football World Cup or the rise in right wing nationalistic sentiment in England, or maybe both. Arriving in Genova (Italy), I was surprised to see the flag of St George flying all over the place.

It does not fly in Genova because its inhabitants have become England football supporters. There is another reason for its prevalence.

In Genova

According to  Wikipedia,  the flag of St George has its origin in the tenth century. It was originally associated with the Crusaders, and was adopted as the ensign of the former Republic of Genova.

In the fourteenth century Englad replaced its patron saint, Edmunds the Martyr, with St George, and his flag  became used in the country.

It is believed that when  Richard the Lionheart passed through Genoa in the thirteenth century, he adopted the flag for his ships. But to do this he had to agree to pay Genova an annual tribute. This continued to be paid until 1771.

So, it seems that British nationalists and others in England are flying a ‘borrowed’ flag. We should be indebted to both Richard the Lionheart and to the mediaeval rulers of Genova.