Stepping down to the water in the well

WATER STORAGE TANKS and wells are subject to changes in the water level. In small wells such as are commonly found in England, a bucket and winch system allows the water gatherer to reach the water in the well. In India  where water tanks and wells can be quite large, occupying a substantial area of ground, another system is used to allow users to get to whatever level the water has reached. The walls of the sides of the tank/reservoir/well are lined with a series of staircases, which are used to reach the water. Often the sets of steps lining the walls of the so-called stepwells are arranged in attractive geometric patterns.

 

At the Toorji stepwell

Since first seeing a (disused) beautiful stepwell in the ruins of the medieval city of Vijayanagara at Hampi in Karnataka thirty years ago, I have been fascinated by stepwells. I have seen many while travelling around Gujarat,  and was pleased to find one near our guest house in Jodhpur (Rajasthan). It’s name is Toorji ka Jhalra Bavdi.

 

The Toorji stepwell was built in about 1740. Its construction was ordered by the Queen Consort of Maharaja Abhay Singh. Back in those days, ladies of the royal family often commissioned the building of  water tanks and wells. The Toorji stepwell was used mostly by women, who traditionally did household chores including the fetching and carrying of water.

 

Toorji stepwell is constructed with the rose red sandstone of Jodhpur.  It is decorated with carvings of various sizes. Nowadays, as with so many interesting places all over the world,  it is a popular location for taking ‘selfies’ and for posing for photographs. Despite this, it is a stepwell worth seeing and is a remarkably tranquil spot surrounded by a maze of narrow, busy streets and lanes.

Towers of light at a water tank in Mumbai

HAPPY CHRISTMAS

A DEEPSTHAMBH IS a Hindu architectural feature found near temples or temple compounds. It is a tower with many small niches into which small oil lamps (diyas) are placed and lit to celebrate special Hindu occasions. A good place to see a number of these is at Bombay’s Banganga Tank in the Walkeshwar area.

Two deepsthambhs next to Banganga Tank

The tank is a rectangular pool surrounded by steps that lead into the water contained within it. At one corner of the tank water flows from a spring vigorously into the pool. The tank is full of large fish, which the locals feed. Being in a strictly vegetarian neighbourhood, these fish are safe from being caught and eaten. The tank is surrounded by houses and many smallish temples. The Tank is a few yards from the rock strewn seashore.

The tank was first built in 1127 AD by Lakshman Prabhu, a minister in the Sihara Court of Thane. This makes the Tank one of the oldest surviving features of what is now Mumbai. It was rebuilt in 1715. According to legend, the spring that now feeds the Tank appeared suddenly when Rama stopped at this spot during his search for Sita.

Banganga Tank is a pleasant spot at which to linger. So near to the hustle and bustle of Mumbai, here is a place that us both beautiful and relatively peaceful. It gives me a good feeling.