RELIGIOUS DIVERSITY AT A SUFI SHRINE IN RAJASTHAN

 

IN MY BOOK “Coracles and Crocodiles: 101 Tales of India”, I have described how practices associated with Hinduism can sometimes be seen in Indian mosques. This is particularly true in the Sufi dargah (shrine) in Ajmer, where Khawaja Gharib Nawaz (1143 – 1236), also known as ‘Muʿīn al-Dīn Chishtī’, buried. According to Wikipedia, he was:

“… one of the first major Islamic mystics to formally allow his followers to incorporate the “use of music” in their devotions, liturgies, and hymns to God, which he did in order to make the ‘foreign’ Arab faith more relatable to the indigenous peoples who had recently entered the religion.”

 

The shrine is in a large compound containing a mosque and other shrines in the heart of Ajmer.

 The dargah compound is much visited, not only by Muslims but also by adherents of other religions: Hindus, Sikhs, etc. Visiting the dargah is considered to be a very special auspicious event. Visitors of all religions buy baskets of red petals to place on the various shrines in the complex. In many places, there are Muslim clerics who bless you by tapping your head with what looks like a large peacock feather duster. In exchange for this benediction, the recipient is expected to leave a financial donation. If the donation is large enough, it and your name will be recorded in a ledger, and you will receive a receipt. If it is insufficient,  the cleric appears to pocket it.

 

Apart from the groups of musicians playing and singing qawwalis (قوّالی). surrounded by appreciative pilgrims seated around them, there were several other things that interested me. All of these can be found in Hindu places of worship. They include burning incense sticks (agarbatti); lighting diyas (oil lamps) and placing them in holders such as can be found in Hindu temples; and tying threads to parts of the shrines.  Another activity that I found unusual in a Muslim place of worship was blessing of pieces of cloth that were then tied around the pilgrim’s head.

 

The atmosphere in the dargah compound was lively and festive. People seemed happy to be there. And surprisingly for someone like me, who is not particularly religious, I  felt that the place seemed very holy. This might be because those around me were at the dargah not as an obligatory ritual but because they believed strongly in its holiness.

[ MY book is available from https://www.amazon.co.uk/CORACLES-CROCODILES-101-TALES-INDIA/dp/B0DJZ6DMYB

From revolution to religion and meditation

SRI AUROBINDO (1872-1950) lived in Baroda between 1893 and 1906. During this period, he was an official in the Gaekwad’s government, a professor of English, and the Vice Principal of Baroda College, now the Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda.

Map at Aurobindo Ashram in Baroda

Today, Aurobindo is best known as a spiritual leader, who spent much of his life in Pondicherry. However, before this he was a keen supporter of ridding India of its domination by the British. During his term as Vice Principal, he began taking an active interest in the growing independence movement.

In 1906, he shifted to Calcutta to become the first principal of National College (now Jadavpur University), which was founded to provide national education to Indian youth. He resigned in 1907 because of his increased involvement in anti-British activities.

In May 1908, Aurobindo was imprisoned for a year because he was suspected of having been involved in the fatal Alipore Bomb case. He was acquitted. During his imprisonment, his interests began to move from revolution to religion. He began practising yoga, and thinking about spiritual matters.

After his release, the British security services kept him under observation despite the fact that his active involvement in nationalist activities was waning. By 1910, he had fled to Pondicherry, which was then a French colony and out of reach of the British authorities. From then on, his activities as a spiritual leader, for which he is best known, took off.

The house where he lived in Baroda between 1900 and 1906 stands surrounded by well tended gardens. It is now known as an Aurobindo ashram. People who believe in him visit the place to meditate and enjoy its peaceful atmosphere.

At the end of one of the gardens, there is a stage. Behind the stage, there is a large map on a wall. It shows the outlines of British India before it became divided into Bangladesh, Burma, India, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka. I do not know when this map was drawn, but it is interesting that it does not depict modern India alone.

As we wandered around the place, I wondered how many of its visitors seeking spiritual solace consider Aurobindo’s earlier less peaceful approach to life.