BY THE END OF the last Ice Age (which occurred 1800 to 8000 years ago approximately), there was a huge landslip on the south coast of the Isle of Wight (‘IOW’). This resulted in the formation of an almost level strip of land about 5 miles long and between ¼ and a ½ mile in width. South of it is the sea, and to the north it is flanked by a steep hillside. Known as the ‘Undercliff’, the town of Ventnor stands upon it. At the eastern end of the Undercliff, the small village of Bonchurch stands. Where this village is located the Undercliff is not exactly flat but slopes considerably, which means that many of the buildings in the place are at different levels. This part of the Undercliff is perched on a high, constantly crumbling cliff overlooking the sea.
The village of Bonchurch is mentioned in the Domesday book. The name is probably derived from the Anglo-Saxon words meaning ‘Boniface’ and ‘church’. The oldest existing building in the village is the small St Boniface Church, now known as ‘The Old Church’. A notice outside it states that it was rebuilt in 1070. In good condition, this simple building is hardly used in comparison with the newer village church built in 1848. A steep path with some steps leads from the old church to the sea front, where the crumbling cliffs can be studied. The path crosses a babbling brook, which carries water from a spring next to the Old Church. Some believe that it was the existence of this spring that encouraged the first humans to settle in this district.
Later settlers and visitors to Bonchurch included some literary figures, who have become well-known. In 1819, whilst staying in Shanklin, the poet John Keats wrote to his sister Fanny Keats:
“Bonchurch too is a very delightful Place—as I can see by the Cottages, all romantic—covered with creepers and honeysuckles, with roses and eglantines peeping in at the windows. Fit abodes for the People I guess live in them, romantic old maids fond of novels, or soldiers’ widows with a pretty jointure—or any body’s widows or aunts or anythings given to Poetry and a Piano-forte—as far as in ’em lies—as people say. If I could play upon the Guitar I might make my fortune with an old song—and get two blessings at once—a Lady’s heart and the Rheumatism. But I am almost afraid to peep at those little windows—for a pretty window should show a pretty face, and as the world goes chances are against me.”
However, the poet did not stay in Bonchurch. Amongst the celebrated literati who spent time in the village, were the historian Canon Venables (1819-1895); the novelist Elizabeth Missing Sewell (1816-1906); the author Henry de Vere Stacpoole (1863-1951); the poet Algernon Charles Swinburne (1837-1909), and, most famous of all, Charles Dickens (1812-1870).
According to a booklet I purchased in the Old Church, between July and October 1849, Dickens stayed in a large house called Winterbourne (see photograph), which he had rented from his friend the writer and vicar, Reverend James White. It was here that Dickens wrote six chapters of his novel “David Copperfield”. Each of these chapters were initially published month by month, as was the case for many of the author’s other stories. In addition to writing, Dickens enjoyed rambling in and around Bonchurch and playing rounders on the seashore. Also, he spent much time socialising with James White and his wife Rosa, who lived elsewhere in the village. A website (www.bonchurchvillage.co.uk/post/a-christmas-story-the-grandfather-s-story) recorded:
“Dickens and his wife Catherine with their children became very close friends of Rev. White and Rosa White (nee Hill) and their children during their holiday at Winterbourne in 1849.”
It also noted:
“James White had already had success with plays performed in London and stories contributed to ‘Blackwells Magazine’ in Edinburgh.”
A visit to Bonchurch is a delightful experience. Climbing its steep roads and paths makes a picturesque substitute for a ‘work out’ in a gym.
yamey 